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Achieving “natural” beauty often requires unnatural means. Beyond the artifice lies the artificiality of the products themselves. What may come as a surprise is that cosmetics do not fall under the jurisdiction of the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), Rockville, Md.
The cosmetics industry is a self-regulated one. Its products and ingredients are not subject to FDA pre-market approval authority, and its manufacturers are not required to register with the FDA, file data on ingredients or report cosmetics-related injuries. While it's a discomforting truth, don't swear off beauty and skin-care products just yet. Plenty of natural and organic products exist and independent research has shed light on what's in those bottles.
Soap Opera
Soap and other cleansers might seem like the most basic and harmless of all cosmetic products but one look at the ingredient list can prove otherwise. Of the many confusing and multisyllabic ingredients you might find are variations on the word paraben: methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben. Manufacturers add them as antimicrobial and preservative agents. You can also find them in moisturizers, deodorants and a host of other products. Though they might be preventing germs from developing, a 2004 study published in the Journal of Applied Toxicology turned up a disturbing finding: the presence of parabens in samples of breast tumors. Eighteen out of 20 tumors tested indicated that the parabens came from something applied to the skin, likely a cosmetic product.
Another common but potentially dangerous word is fragrance. That one word can mask any number of chemicals. Since formulas are considered proprietary, companies do not have to disclose their composition and hundreds of hidden ingredients can lurk within. Look for products that rely on essential oils for their scent instead. And though you might think you're in the clear when you see “fragrance-free” on a label, that often denotes the presence of, ironically, fragrance-masking fragrance.
To avoid both, try paraben-free products like those from Pangea Organics, which has an Egyptian Calendula & Blood Orange ($22.99 at Whole Foods).
Lyin' in the Sun
Sun safety warnings are everywhere, especially at this time of year, but before you slather yourself with the highest SPF made, consider the types of sunscreen available. Products with PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid) and oxybenzone, which both absorb UV rays, can be irritating to the skin. Parsol 1789, also known as avobenzone, is a new and popular option, but there has been some debate about its safety. Then there's the old standbys, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide which they are now available in colorless formulations. They do not cause irritation and provide a mechanical instead of chemical block of the sun's rays. Alba Botanica's Chemical Free Sunscreen SPF 18 utilizes titanium dioxide ($8.95 at Whole Foods). It is important to reapply all sunscreens as recommended on the packaging for them to truly work. Whatever you choose, you can enhance its effectiveness in a non-chemical way by wearing a sun hat, sunglasses, protective clothing or sitting under an umbrella.
If you're not buying the whole “pale is the new tan” thing but are too smart to bake in the sun and too wary of the chemicals that go into a sunless tan, you can seek out an organic sunless tan at spas such as Rain Day Spa in Woodbury. Rain Day Spa has a “glo bar,” which gives you that sun-kissed look from a misting of DHA 20, derived from organic sugar. The formula is 99 percent natural (the other one percent is alcohol).
Makeup Your Mind
The next time you slick on some lip gloss, consider its possible relation to an oil slick. If petrolatum or mineral oil are ingredients, then you're wearing a derivative of the same stuff that's running your car. Instead, opt for a formulation like Ecco Bella's Good for You Gloss ($14.95 at Eden's Way, Massapequa), which uses castor oil and shea butter.
These days, when searching for a natural cosmetics option it is impossible not to be bombarded by the claims of mineral makeup: It's all natural, it's a beneficial skin-care product, you can sleep in it, the list goes on and on. But “there is nothing all natural about the ingredients in mineral makeup,” says Paula Begoun, author and publisher of several best-selling books on the beauty industry, including several editions of Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me (Beginning Press, 2003) and The Beauty Bible (Beginning Press, 2002). She says that ingredients like bismuth oxychloride, one of the most commonly occurring components in mineral makeups and one which can be irritating to skin, do not exist in nature. Begoun does concede that most mineral makeup is fragrance - and preservative-free but cautions that if you do use them, be aware that despite claims to the contrary they are most definitely not moisturizing, not dependable for sun protection and should not be slept in as this can clog pores and promote bacteria growth.
Nailed Down
That noticeable smell when you open a bottle of nail polish is more than simply irritating. That's toluene and formaldehyde. Toulene ensures a smooth, even finish to manicures, but its fumes have been linked to kidney damage and birth defects. Its aliases are benzene, methylbenzene, phenylmethane and toluol. Formaldehyde, a known carcinogen, causes damage both from its presence on your skin and from inhalation.
No nail polish can be completely safe, but some steer clear of those toxic ingredients. Shu Uemura Nail Enamel Supplement Mineral ($16 at Sephora) is one toluene- and formaldehyde-free formula. It's still a good idea to avoid nail polish altogether when pregnant or nursing.
Hairy Situation
According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), a Washington, D.C.-based non-profit environmental research organization, the shampoo foaming agents sodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl ether sulfate may be contaminated by 1,4-dioxane, listed as a probable carcinogen by the EPA. The FDA has encouraged manufacturers to remove the contaminant, but they are not required by federal law to do so. A good alternative is a shampoo that has an herb, coconut oil or olive oil base like Kiss My Face Whenever Shampoo ($6 at It's Only Natural, Rockville Centre).
While the FDA does regulate color additives, hair dyes are excluded. Many dyes rely on para-phenylenediamine (PPD), which also goes by the name 1,4-benzenediamine, a derivative of coal tar. While the debate about cancer-causing properties in hair dyes rages, some of its risks are nevertheless quite clear. The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, Atlanta, says that it can cause irritation of the pharynx and larynx, bronchial asthma and sensitization dermatitis, meaning you can develop sensitivities to all of the other products that you come in contact with on a daily basis. PPD is not legalized for direct application to the skin, but it's quite the feat to dye your hair without the solution touching your scalp. To cover those grays, try Aubrey Organics Color Me Natural ($11.95 at Whole Foods), a permanent hair color that does not contain PPD or synthetic chemicals.
Scent-sible Living
A product test of 72 popular fragrances by the EWG found that 75 percent of them contained phthalates, a plasticizer designed to keep plastic packaging flexible. The EPA says some phthalates are linked to reproductive and fetal developmental problems.
Other ingredients, like commonly used artificial musk, have been linked to skin irritation and sensitization as well as cancer. The European Union has banned some types of artificial musk but they remain unregulated in the United States. Lavinila Laboratories produces a line of fragrances ($56 each at Sephora) made solely of pure essential oils and active botanicals in Vanilla Grapefruit, Pure Vanilla and Vanilla Blossom.
Stay Skin Smart
Keep up-to-date by checking the EWG's Skin Deep report, ewg.org/reports/skindeep , which uses a traffic-signal approach to indicate a low concern, moderate concern or high concern.
