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Russia, earth’s largest country spans 11 time zones that are unified by their capital, Moscow. Since the 1991 Soviet Union collapse, Moscow has evolved into a bewildering contradiction of lingering Communist-era hangovers and upmarket chic. I begin with the end, Novodevichy Cemetery, where hundreds of Russia’s most famous literary, artistic, musical, and political figures are buried. (Note: Cemeteries adjoin churches; graveyards don’t.) An uncanny, stirring stroll through Russian history, a walk through this hall-of-fame memorial stages not gravestones but row upon row of elaborate sculptures and images depicting the legends in telling poses. Famed comedian Yury Nikulin relaxes with his dog, while the ex-presidents’ monuments portray significantly less lighthearted souls.
Vodka was stumbled upon 500 years ago when grain was distilled into what became Russia’s state beverage. No fancy mixers at these parties that define bracketed indulgences, a straight vodka shot (or three) accompanies every celebratory meal here. It’s telling that Russian chemist-extraordinaire Mendeleev, who tortured us in high school with his creation—the periodic table of the elements—is best known amongst Russians for purifying the vodka standard, and pegging it at 40-proof.
The Russian winds of change are personified by the new MaMaison Pokrovka Suite Hotel (www.pokrovka-moscow.com). Moscow’s first all-suite hotel merges cutting-edge spaces, rousing art, and gourmet inventions beneath one roof. Green designed for extended stays, the 84 luxurious, fully-equipped suites have kitchenettes; the smallest are 480 square feet, and the Chairman suite is a spacious 2,300 square feet. Each suite features a different layout, view, and variety of wooden parquet floors, pastel colors, and natural light. Lobbies also flaunt high-design furniture and sculpture, while floor-to-ceiling photographs by famed Czech photographer Štěpán Hon enliven each floor’s hallways. Hon creates a chronological photographic installation in the hotel lobbies—a local history lesson evolving by floor. Photographs are a story about the circle of a Russian life, starting with the birth of a baby who grows up (floor by floor), has children, and eventually becomes a grandparent.
The hotel’s name, MaMaison (or my house), echoes the lavish, private-home atmosphere. The balance of functional-chic furnishings and fine art is nourished by culinary master Said Faddlie, a Moroccan native previously adapted to mingling his French-Moroccan and Asian cuisine finesse with premium Russian tastes—for 10 years he was French chef at Rasputin restaurant in Brooklyn, a renowned Russian nightclub/restaurant. His goal is for customers to “be satisfied not only foodwise, but with an overall warm atmosphere and unparalleled service.” The swank decor flows into Said’s voguish Art Deco restaurant, Numbers, where signature dishes include Chilean sea bass with honey, porcini soup, and pheasant soup. The exquisite feasting space includes a summer terrace, an I’m-so-trendy-I-hurt-myself bar lounge, and a cigar bar.
MaMaison’s Algotherm Spa is Russia’s first world-class spa within a hotel, scheduled to open in late May. Created in 1962, the Algotherm brand introduced algae as a cosmetic enhancer. The Kremlin, Red Square, and Bolshoi Theater are within a 20-minute walk from the hotel. MaMaison Hotel consistently wins Europe’s most prestigious green awards.
Nightlife defines the new Moscow. Two joints blew me away. Petrovitch, a 1970s Soviet-era themed restaurant/club with kitschy Cold War propaganda and Iron Curtain food—super power snacks include chicken Kiev, pelmenis (Russian dumplings), and borst soup. Dining eventually gives way to customers dancing in the aisles to disco-era pop tunes, both Russian and American. The characteristic dour by day but then dancing in the aisles by night Russian persona is on full display . . . dance fever redefined. Moscovites celebrate the night like they’ve won something, and the vodka flows. Be wary: sometimes a little palm-greasing is required to enter such “clubs.”
Rai Nightclub picks up where Studio 54 left off. Moscow’s DJs are hot property across Europe and the U.K. these days, and Rai’s DJ spun a thousand glammed-out dancers into ecstasy. I haven’t waited in line to enter a dance club for decades—I’d rather eat glass, actually—but this was worth it, in an interplanetary way. “Face controllers,” or dreadfully serious doormen, decide which Muscovites get into this mega-thumping Gaudi-esque disco with a jungle motif, so don your stylin’ shoes.
And for the more civilized, the Diamond Fund, adjacent to the Armory Museum, showcases a thousand pounds of diamonds in a million fantastical incarnations, not to mention the gold nuggets bigger than basketballs. Within the Kremlin fortress, the Armory Museum is a mind-blowing collection of extravagant ambassadorial gifts, colossal thrones, and gemstone-studded horse-drawn carriages dating from the 1600s. This is ground zero for Russia’s crown jewels and treasures of Russian Tzars—a gigantic wow.
At Bolshoi Theatre—famous 18th-century icon for ballet—I caught “La Sylphide,” a “boy marries girl but then flirts with another, which justifies his murder” case in point. . . . Hmm? Seems testosterone can be a complex chemical. France and Russia share bragging rights for bringing this art form to the world stage. There are two Bolshois, the famous grand theater (presently undergoing renovation) and the “baby” Bolshoi, which brings to mind New York’s Beacon Theatre.
Visiting Moscow
Delta offers the only year-round service to Moscow of any U.S. carrier
from two gateway cities, New York JFK and Atlanta (for schedules and
fares visit www.delta.com).
Bruce Northam’s wandering continues on www.AmericanDetour.com
phil trupp, Thursday, April 17, 2008 at 02:55 PMfascinating look inside the new affluent russia which now boasts the most expensive city on the continent: moscow.
Sarah Radoli, Friday, April 18, 2008 at 06:50 AMInteresting write or shall I say read. At least now I know one more thing I didn't know about Russia - that it has 11 time zones.
I've always been fascinated by stories about Russia and its people. And this write sums up the entire culture of Russia.
Robertson, Tuesday, April 22, 2008 at 05:04 AMBrilliant piece of travel journalism. Well written, picturesque, and motivational. Ra Ra Rasputin!! Let's to Moscow and get stuck in!
