Canada’s ten provinces—from east to west--—each reflect the character of their bordering U.S. states. Maine and Nova Scotia’s salty fishermen have as much in common as Seattle and Vancouver’s vegan gurus. Alberta, the stunning Canadian Rocky Mountain Province, sits above western Montana and shares its loathing for human herding.

There are some places in this world where humans cooperating with nature means more than pitching nuts to a squirrel. The only insistent communal dilemma in Banff—a village within Canada’s breathtaking Banff National Park—is the “elk problem.” Resident elk not cognizant of public indecency codes (breeding on main street, occasionally hip-checking locals) involuntarily enter the 500-mile relocation program, a wilderness work-release program with three strikes. After two relocations to the wilds, an elk’s third lip-smacking gaze into the burger joint is their last. Bulls like spacious fields to simultaneously peruse as many cows as possible, like dudes spying a dance floor. Banff built a fence around their elementary school property to keep elk out during the bulls’ mating season—a Spring Break barricade of sorts. In these mountains, all wildlife is respected. Local Highway 1 ranges through the Rockies and features wildlife-only overpasses: fenced-in, foliated land bridges that link wilderness otherwise split by the road.

Skiers tend to think white, but they can also glide green. Banff is Canada’s adaptation of Vail, but within a pristine Rocky Mountain preserve with a cap on further building. The buzzing nightlife and high-end shops could engage any addicted Southampton shopper. Like Lake George Village buzzing despite the Adirondacks, this tourist scene glows in the midst of backcountry heaven. Banff is not another resort pop-up hugging a ski mountain; there are signage restrictions, no cookie-cutter strip malls, and hardy locals haven’t caved in to corporate indenturing. Just outside of town is the landmark Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. This North American version of a palace runs many on-site environmental programs, including powering all of its maintenance vehicles on-property with biodegradable materials left over from kitchen waste/food spoils, as well as recycling all the empty bottles and cans used at the hotel and donating all the proceeds to charities.

The Banff Special Event Corporation (BSEC), which puts on all the events in town and at the park, has just adopted a new program called “Towards Zero Waste Events,” where the planners of the many events and festivals taking place throughout the park each year are asked to follow a set of guidelines that divert waste from landfills by using reusable, recyclable, and biodegradable materials. BSEC and the Bow Valley Waste Management Commission have committed to the lofty goal of 70 percent overall waste diversion from the landfill. The beauty of “Towards Zero” is that it’s a permanent “green” program that supports the park’s prestigious UNESCO World Heritage status, as well as the local economy by creating jobs, product-development opportunities, and valuable learning in the area of sustainable tourism. Visitors and residents alike say this program is something they hope to see all national parks adopt in the coming years.

Best Eats

Dining in Banff and Lake Louise can be authentic or high-style, from the Lake Louise Railway Station & Restaurant (www.lakelouisestation.com) to the private chef’s table at Fuze Finer Dining (www.fuzedining.com). At both places you’ll avoid the crowds and can dig into Alberta beef or caribou medallions. Not a meat-eater? Head to Walliser Stube at The Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel (inset) for steaming cheese fondue or detour off the slopes to your resort’s lodge for an après-ski lunch. For more information on Fairmont’s restaurants and environmentally-friendly programs, visit www.fairmont.com.

Skier’s Paradise

Skiing Lake Louise or nearby Ski Norquay and Sunshine Village will forever injure your tolerance for Northeastern U.S. ski resorts’ crystallized slush. Lake Louise Mountain Resort, also located in Banff National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage site), hosts major races, including the first events on the prestigious world cup racing circuit. With more than 4,000 acres of terrain covering four mountain faces, the resort is both vast and varied. Average snowfall is 180 inches and there are 139 different runs to choose from, with the longest stretching more than 5 miles. The resort was also rated #1 for scenery by Ski magazine. Ski Norquay is the area’s most family-friendly resort and offers more than 270 satisfying runs. Sunshine Village has stunning, uninterrupted Rocky Mountain views.
For information, visit  www.SkiCanadianRockies.com or call (800) ALBERTA.

Bruce Northam’s rambles continue on www.AmericanDetour.com